Security Tips

Protecting Against Entry

Many of the locks and other items described in this section are inexpensive and

can be installed yourself. Some, however, may require a professional to install

them. Your local police or sheriff’s department can answer any questions you

may have.

Key Control

True security begins with key control. When you move into a home or apartment

or lose your keys, always have the locks re-keyed. You don’t have to replace the

lock itself, as re-keying of locks will render the previous keys useless. Any

licensed locksmith can change the tumblers in your outside door locks quickly

and inexpensively.

Do not leave an "emergency" key under the door mat, on top of the door frame or

in any other "hiding spot" so well-known to burglars.

Never attach a name, address, or license tag to your house keys or your

children’s. If keys are lost or stolen, you will have an unwelcome visitor very

quickly!

Keep car keys and house keys separate. Never leave your house keys with an

attendant when you go to the car wash or parking lot.

Exterior Lighting

 Exterior lighting is extremely important in residential security. Each exterior

 doorway should be lighted from dusk to dawn so a burglar can’t hide to break in.

 Yards and windows should be lighted. Night blind spots can be eliminated by

 use of ornamental porch and yard lamp posts.

 Yard lights and entrance lights can be equipped with sensors that turn the light

 on at dusk and off at dawn or when it detects motion. The motion detectors

 seem to work better because when the light turns on there is a change in environment.

 Motion detector lights can also be equipped with bell or other warning sounds.

 Check the sensors or motion detectors periodically to make sure they work.

Landscaping

 Keep doorways, windows and porches clear when planting bushes and flowers.

 Remember that the bushes that provide you with privacy also give a burglar a place to hide.

 Prune large trees. A burglar can climb the lower limbs to the second story. A well-maintained lawn is a

 very effective clue that someone is at home and cares.

 Plan your landscaping with both privacy and security in mind — planting thorny

 bushes and shrubs near windows and along fences may discourage burglars.

 Locked gates and well-maintained fences can make break-ins more difficult and

 prevent the removal of large items.

 Walks and driveways should be easily seen so no landscaping offers concealment for intruders.

Doors

Hinge doors

 The hinge door is the most common type used in houses and apartments. They

 are used for front, porch, garage and basement doors leading into the home. All

 exterior hinge doors should be of solid core construction, 1-3/4 inch thick. The

 door frame should be of solid construction and be equipped with a proper strike

 plate. Hollow core or composition board doors can easily be battered or broken

 through.

Outside hinges.

 Doors with hinges on the outside will provide a burglar with easy

  access to your home.

 The burglar only has to remove the hinges and lift the door away

  from its frame.

 This situation can be corrected in three ways:

  •  Remove the door and remount the hinges on the inside of  the frame so that the door swings inward; or
  •  Install a set of hinges with non-removable hinge pins; or
  •  Install a locking pin below the existing hinge plate. Here is  how:

           (1) Drill holes below the hinge plate.

           (2) Insert a "headless" screw, bolt or nail into the door jamb below the hinge         plate.

             Leave at least one-half inch of the screw, bolt or nail extending from the         frame.

             Once this is done, as the door closes, the pin in the jamb will penetrate the

             hole in the door and the door will be held in position even if the hinge pins         are removed.

Dead Bolt locks.

    The best defense for a good solid core wood door is a dead bolt   lock with one-inch throw bolt.

     The security dead bolt lock can be used on any hinge door where the strike plate can be

     securely fastened to the door frame. When installing a dead bolt, attach the strike plate (the jamb

     fastening that receives the bolt in the locking position) to the door with four to

     six, three-inch brass wood screws. The screws should penetrate through

     the frame to a structural member.

     Dead bolt locks come in double key cylinder and inside thumb-operated

     models. If there are no windows in or near the door, the bolt may be operated

     from inside by a thumb turn. Both single and double key cylinder dead

     bolt locks should meet the following criteria to be a good security device:

  •  The bolt must extend a minimum of one-inch and contain a hardened steel insert.
  •  The dead bolt should contain a cylinder guard to prohibit twisting of the lock with a wrench or pliers. It must be solid metal — not hollow casting or stamped metal.
  •  The key way should contain a five-pin tumbler system to make it more difficult to pick.
  •  The connecting screws that hold the lock together must be on the inside and made of case-hardened steel. No screw heads should be exposed on the outside.
  •  The connecting screws must be at least one-fourth inch in diameter and go into solid metal stock, not screw posts.

     Many communities prohibit the use of a double key cylinder dead bolt lock

     because it may be hazardous if the door is to be used as an emergency fire

     exit. Consult your local law enforcement agency, fire department or locksmith,

     regarding its use. If used in your home, a key should be left in the

     inside cylinder whenever the home is occupied.

Key-in-the-knob locks.

    These locks on an outside door are an invitation

     to even the most inexperienced burglar. These locks can be forced by

     breaking off the knob, and frequently they can be opened by prying or slipping

     a piece of plastic between the jamb and the bolt. Do not rely on these

     locks. Install a dead-latching plunger type lock to supplement it.

Locks for double doors.

    Many homes with double doors use half-barrel

     slide bolts on the inactive door. These are weak and inadequate and should

     not be relied upon. Additional locking devices should be installed. Flush

     bolts installed at the top and bottom of the inactive door of a pair of doors

     offer additional security since the intruder cannot get at these devices to

     tamper with them if the doors are locked. It is important that the bolts have at

     least one-inch of throw and that they protrude well into the top frame and

     threshold. Additionally, the strike plates should be well secured with at least

     three-inch brass wood screws.

Locks for dutch doors.

     Dutch doors can be secured by adding a dead

bolt lock to both the lower and upper door.

Security for doors with glass

If an exterior door has a glass window or if there is glass within 40 inches of the

lock, you may want to install security screening, window guards or burglary rated

glazing. Use non-removable screws to securely mount screens, bars or window

guards.

Sliding glass doors. Sliding glass doors present a major security problem

if they do not have the proper locks and if special steps are not taken to

prevent removal of the door.

A sliding glass door is lifted into position when installed and, therefore, must

be lifted from the track to be removed. To prevent this, insert #8 or #10 sheet

metal screws into the top of the door frame at both ends and the middle.

Adjust these screws so that the door barely clears them when it is operated. If

properly inserted, this will take up the slack between the upper part of the

door and the interior frame.

It is important to note that dowels alone placed in the door track will not

prevent a burglar from removing the sliding door.

The best lock for a sliding glass door is operable by a key from the inside.

The lock bolt should engage the strike sufficiently so that it will not be disengaged

by any amount of movement. When the existing inside pull has to be

changed in order to accommodate a new deadlock, an inside cylinder pull is

recommended as a replacement. A single lock is not recommended because

of the softness of aluminum frames.

A supplemental lock should be installed at the top or bottom, made out of

steel and inserted in the sliding door at a slightly downward angle.

Garage Doors

Garage doors should always be closed and locked whenever you are away from

home. Most garages offer burglars a wide selection of tools to use in breaking

into your home. Garages provide ladders for accessing second story windows

and also a convenient, hidden route for entry into your home through the connecting

door. Remember, a securely locked garage will prevent burglars from

the opportunity to steal automobiles, tools, bicycles, lawn mowers and other

property.

Sectional roll-up doors

For overhead sectional roll-up doors, drill a hole of proper size in the door track,

just above one of the guide rollers while the door is in the closed position, and

install a padlock. Many doors are installed with pre-drilled holes that will accommodate

this security feature without having to drill. Or, install eye bolts on the

inside top of the garage door and the door frame. When the garage door is

closed, a padlock can secure the bolts and prevent opening of the door.

Electric garage door openers

An electric garage door opener should have steel gears and chain activation.

Periodically check the door to make sure it is adjusted to prevent the bottom from

being lifted up. This stops the thief from crawling under the door.

When you move into a new home, reset the code in the opener and the remote

control units.

Cane bolts can be installed on the inside of the door. These can only be locked

from the inside. Sliding hasps can also be used on the inside of the door.

Lifting doors

Hardened steel hasps and padlocks are recommended to secure both sides of a

lifting garage door. This is to prevent the lifting of the opposite side and crawling

under the door.

Installing the hasp. A hasp must be of hardened steel and installed with

carriage bolts through the door. Use large washers on the inside. When

installing hasps, make sure that the mounting screws are covered when

the hasp is locked. After the bolts are secured, deface the threads of the bolt

ends with a hammer to keep the nuts from being removed.

Selecting a padlock. Use a good quality padlock to secure your garage

door. There are many padlocks on the market from which to choose. Some

can even be keyed to your house key. Do not be guilty of economizing on a

padlock that will not give you the protection you need. Most combination

padlocks are poor security because the bodies of these locks are very weak.

The most common assault on a padlock is with a large bolt cutter or pry bar.

Some padlocks have built-in shackle guards which make them difficult to

attack with bolt cutters. The following description of the minimum standard

for an exterior padlock can be taken to the locksmith or hardware store:

n Case hardened steel, 7/16 inch shackle. (Short, heavier shackles offer

additional security.) Stainless steel shackles offer the ultimate in padlock

security.

n Double-locking mechanism — heel and toe.

n Five pin tumbler.

n A key retaining feature, whenever possible. This prevents you from

removing the key until you have locked the padlock.

Some padlocks have the key code number printed on them. This should be filed

off. Otherwise, a burglar can go to a locksmith, give the brand/number and buy a

duplicate key. Never leave your padlock unlocked. This is an invitation to have

the padlock removed so that a key can be made and the lock returned to its

original location. Later the burglar returns when no one is home and enters at his

or her leisure, using that key.

Other garage doors

The weakest link in an attached garage is usually the side (rear) door. Doors

with window panes or thin veneer wood or no dead bolt locks should be considered

a primary entry for a burglar. Take measures to make this door as secure

as the front door. In most cases, it is easier to either replace the door or use

plywood on the interior to reinforce the existing wood panel, or to replace the

glass with burglary resistant glazing to prevent entry through the window.

Windows

Sliding windows

Sliding windows should be secured by the same methods used for the sliding

doors. Both the pan head top screws and the bracing devices are effective on

this type of window, if the slider is on the inside. Several types of auxiliary locks

which offer improved security are also available.

Casement windows (crank type)

These windows are the easiest to secure. Make sure the locking latch works

properly and the crank which opens and closes the window has no excessive

play. Replace any worn hardware. Key lock handles are available, if you desire.

If the window is not normally opened or closed, remove the crank handle.

Double-hung sash-type windows

To secure these windows, drill a hole that angles slightly downward through a top

corner of the bottom window into the bottom of the top window, on both sides.

Then place an eye bolt or eight penny nail into the hole to prevent the window

from being opened.

Auxiliary latches may also be installed. The most effective protection for doublehung

windows is a key-locking security sash lock. If possible, mount the lock

with two-inch wood screws.

Louvered windows

It is best to replace louvered windows with another type. Metal grating may also

be used as long as it is secured with large bolts, preventing the bars or grating

from being torn free from their mount.

For the interim period of waiting for the replacement windows or installation of

window bars, you might want to secure the windows:

n Remove each individual pane of glass and sand the glass and metal frame

where the two meet; and,

n Apply a two-part epoxy resin glue to the sanded area and replace the

piece of glass into the framework.

Basement windows

Basement windows are one of the most common points of entry for burglars.

Special attention should be paid to securing them if they are hidden by bushes or

trees which provide burglars with an ideal place to work unobserved. Such

windows should be replaced with plexiglass or polycarbonate, or reinforced with

decorative security bars.

Garage windows

If you use garage windows for ventilation, install the same security items as

recommended for the windows in your home. Hang curtains or miniblinds to

prevent a potential burglar from checking to see if you’re home or window shopping

for valuables.

Window guards or grilles

For extremely vulnerable windows, you may wish to consider installing heavygauge

metal (iron) grilles. Before installation, consult your local fire department

about emergency release require- ments. Grilles should be attached with one

way screws or fastened from the inside. Bars and gratings are not recommended

for sleeping rooms because they could create a fire hazard. If they are

used, however, they must have an inside mechanism that allows them to swing

out in an emergency.

Alarms

An alarm system can contribute to your home’s security. However, do not depend

only upon an alarm to protect you. Be sure to use the proper locking

devices and join or start a Neighborhood Watch program in your area.

There are many types of alarms on the market. Before deciding what type of

system to install, check with your local law enforcement agency to determine if

there is an alarm ordinance in your area.

Entire alarm systems may be leased or purchased from professional state licensed

alarm companies and are also available from electrical and hardware

dealers or home improvement stores. Alarm system installation by a well-established,

professional alarm company in your community will save you money in

service calls and local fines. You may wish to consult with your local Better

Business Bureau to determine which companies are reputable in your community.

You may also call the state licensing agency to verify that a company is

licensed and whether or not any disciplinary actions have been taken against

them. For state licensee information, call (916) 445-7833 or 445-7724.

Get at least three estimates and then decide which alarm company and system is

best for your needs.

Any alarm system should include:

n A fail-safe battery backup.

n Fire-sensing capability (ionizationsensors are best).

n Readout ability to check the working of the system. Test your alarm

periodically if your system has that feature.

n Horn-sounding device.

Most residential alarms emit a loud noise from a bell, siren or tone generator. An

audible alarm on doors and windows can be an effective deterrent to the amateur

burglar. Make sure that your family understands how the alarm operates and

sounds. Notify your neighbors that you have installed an alarm and make sure

that they are aware of the alarm’s sound and that it is loud enough to be heard in

their homes. Family and neighbors should be trained to call your law enforcement

agency when they hear the alarm.

If you live in a rural area or if most of your neighbors are gone during the day,

you may wish to consider having a system with an automatic dialer to a central

reporting station. This type of system is activated when your alarm goes off. An

alarm responder will call your home to find out if it is a false alarm, requesting

your password or other code. If no one answers, or if the proper response is not

received, they will call your local law enforcement agency. In most jurisdictions,

its illegal to have a dialer alarm system call the police or sheriff’s department.

Safe Practices

Don’t tip off burglars by telephone

Burglars often try to find out if anyone is home by phoning. If you get several

suspicious "wrong number" calls or "nobody-at-the-other-end" calls, tell the

police. Warn family members, especially children, not to give out information by

phone — especially about who is home, who is out, or how long anyone is

expected to be out.

If you use an answering machine or voice mail service, do not indicate on your

greeting that you will be gone for a specific time. A more appropriate message is

that you screen calls and sometimes you may be home or not.

If your name is in the telephone book, do not place your full name on the mailbox,

door or apartment building roster. Use your first two initials and last name

only. Your name on display only makes it easier for the burglar to look your

phone number up in the phone book.

Make it look as if you’re home

Maintaining an appearance of occupancy even when your home is vacant is

essential to thwarting burglary attempts.

Timers can automatically regulate television, radios, and the interior lighting of a

home to create such a deception. Timers should be used while you are on

vacation, when you are out to dinner or even during the day while you are at

work.

One type of automatic timer has a 24-hour dial and allows you to set an on-andoff

time to coincide with normal light usage in your home. These timers simply

plug into the wall, and the lamp you want to use is plugged into the timer.

For the most realistic deception, several timers should be used to simulate

occupancy. For instance, a television and lamp in the living room might be on

from 6:30 p.m. until 11:00 p.m. At 11:00 p.m., a lamp might go on in the bathroom

until 11:30 p.m. and a bedroom lamp might go on from 11:00 p.m. to

midnight. This would indicate to anyone watching the house that it was occupied.

During the day, leave drapes and shades in their normal position — the way you

have them when at home. (And do not leave easily stolen valuables in sight

close to windows!)

Don’t advertise your vacation plans

Inform one or two people of your vacation plans — a trusted neighbor who can

keep an eye on things while you are gone. Have your neighbor pick up your

newspaper and other deliveries. (Do not inform any delivery people that you will

be on vacation.) If you will be gone for more than a week, arrange to keep your

lawn maintained and for your garbage can to be put out and brought in. Notify

the police/sheriff if you live in a jurisdiction which provides vacation checks.

Don’t reward the burglar who does get in

If, despite your precautions, a burglar does get into your home, do not give him

or her a "bonus" of cash or easily-carried jewelry. Never keep large sums of

cash around the house. Keep valuable jewelry that you do not often wear in a

safe deposit box.

House numbers

Make sure that police, fire and paramedics can find your home in a time of

emergency. Have your house numbers clearly mounted on a high contrast

background. Each number should be at least four-inches. Have the numbers

illuminated all night. Also, your house number should be painted on the center of

the driveway next to the street. Have it repainted periodically because it can

fade.

Does your police or sheriff’s department have a helicopter patrol? If so, on the

rear section of your roof, add your house numbers so that the helicopter patrol

can locate your residence from the air. The numbers should be two feet high and

a contrasting color with the background. A directional arrow and number can

show the increase in house number addresses.

Emergency telephone numbers

Police, fire and paramedic’s emergency telephone numbers should be listed on

or programmed into each phone in your home. Telephone stickers with these

numbers may be available from your police, sheriff or fire departments.

If you discover a burglary has been committed, leave the house undisturbed and

call the police or sheriff’s department from a neighbor’s home. If you interrupt a

burglar or if you see a prowler in or around your home, do not investigate yourself.

. . call 911 immediately from a neighbor’s home.

Call 9-1-1 if an emergency situation threatens human life or property and demands

immediate attention. Do not call 9-1-1 for non emergencies, this causes

delays in the handling of real emergencies.

Protecting Your Property

Mark and record your property – Operation Identification

The experience of many communities vividly confirms that you and your community

can reduce the risk of burglary by simply marking your possessions. Some

towns have had up to a 25 percent decline in burglaries after instituting such a

program. The program is usually known as "Operation Identification."

An inexpensive electric etching pencil or engraver — often available on loan from

your local law enforcement agency — is used to engrave your personal property

with your driver’s license number. (Do not use your social security number.

Federal law forbids the use of social security numbers to trace an individual.)

Engrave your valuables with this information: "Stolen from CA ___ (insert your

driver’s license number here)." CA stands for California. This allows law enforcement

to trace the number. Inscribe on furniture, appliances, television,

stereo components, guns, cameras, lawn equipment, tools, musical instruments,

personal computers, etc. These words can be placed on the base or rear portion

of the item without marring the appearance of the item. Electric engraving

pencils are as easy to write with as a ball point pen and are a worthwhile investment.

Some small items, such as jewelry which cannot be marked, should be photographed.

Larger items can be videotaped. Place your driver’s license photo next

to the item for easy ownership identification.

Extremely valuable jewelry should be appraised by a reputable appraiser. Place

a description and listing of the items on the back of the photograph. In fact, you

may wish to photo- graph or videotape each room in your house.

Once you have marked your property, record it on an inventory list. A sample

inventory form appears in the back of this handbook. Put one copy of the list and

photographs or videotape in your safe deposit box, fire-proof box, freezer portion

of your refrigerator, or otherwise out of reach of a burglar.

Also, save receipts with the model and serial numbers of your more valuable

items and keep them with the inventory list. If you have a burglary loss — or a

fire, storm or any other kind of loss — the list will help you remember what you

had and the receipts will help you establish proof of their value for filing an

insurance claim.

Update your inventory at least once a year to make sure newly-bought items are

added.

There is evidence that burglars avoid both homes and communities where

Operation Identification is used. So after identifying your property, let a would-be

burglar know that the property is marked. Many local law enforcement agencies

can provide decals to warn potential burglars that the home is a participant in

Operation Identification.

Insure against theft

A homeowner’s or renter’s insurance policy provides basic economic protection

against burglary and other types of theft. Policies designed for mobile

homeowners and condominium owners serve the same purpose. If you do not

already have such a policy, it is suggested you purchase one without delay.

(Some insurance companies provide premium discounts if you take certain home

security precautions, i.e., install dead bolt locks, participate in Operation Identification,

etc.)

A typical homeowner’s policy insures you against loss by burglary for up to 50

percent. Say, for example, your home is insured for $100,000. You have

$50,000 in protection on the contents of your home, whether from burglary or

another loss. If you rent, your burglary protection is the full amount stated in the

policy.

Policies and insurance companies differ in their provisions. Many insurance

companies offer "full replacement" compensation for stolen property, while others

will pay for the loss on the basis of the property’s replacement cost minus depreciation.

There may also be a deductible applied to this coverage.

Valuable items — collections, furs, quality cameras, expensive jewelry — should

be protected by an endorsement (sometimes called a floater) on your policy.

This adds coverage on items beyond the limits that apply to certain kinds of

property.

Any questions you have about theft coverage should be directed to your insurance

agent.